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Subtle Lightening on Dark Hair Color

If your client wants to lighten her dark, artificially¬†colored hair, talk to her about highlights. ¬†They might be thinking they want an all-over color and/or have had disastrous results in the past. ¬†If they haven’t had a nice subtle highlight before they might think you are talking about putting blonde stripes in their dark hair. ¬†Assure them you won’t give her really light highlights¬†and because of that they will blend nicely with her dark hair to give an overall softer look. ¬†AND you can do it without it looking brassy.

What she had:

She had a level 2 neutral (almost black) artificially colored hair with 3/4 inch of natural outgrowth (natural 2.5 with 5% gray)

What she wanted:

Something lighter and softer without brassiness.

What I did:

-Retouched her outgrowth all over at the roots with permanent level 3 neutral to cover her level 2.5 (2 1/2)natural blended with 5% gray with a slightly lighter color than she had on mid-shaft.  (this only works if you are going to blend with highlights).

РThen highlighted right over the retouched color and all the way out to the ends.  I weaved a LOT of fine pieces with 35volume with bleach as quickly as possible.  I remixed more bleach for the back when I got to that.

-Put her under a little heat for about 5 min around the 20 minute mark (after the entire head was woven) and then rinsed.

-Toned her all over with semi-permanent ashy level 7.5 (7 1/2) for 25 minutes.

-Round brush styled her for luxe finish.

Common mistakes:

Stylists don’t take time to really consult with clients about past experiences and what they are wanting. ¬†You will often hear clues to what problems might have happened in the past or why they believe something that you know may not be true. ¬†Magazines and stylists have passed along a lot of misinformation. ¬†Also educating your client about what you know you can do and why it will be better. ¬†But don’t use absolutes like, “always” or “never”. ¬†Every head of hair is different and will react differently in every different condition. ¬†Explain it’s a “process” and that you will work together¬†through it. ¬†Making them feel comfortable about you and what you are doing. ¬†They are usually scared. ¬†It’s understandable. ¬†Let them know you know that, it’s ok and you’re on their team.

For this look you need to weave¬†fine¬†pieces¬†to¬†help you lift lighter. ¬†Chunkier pieces are resistant to lifting because¬†there will be hair in the middle of the chunky pieces that don’t lift. ¬†Also, chunky can end up looking like stripes. ¬†Fine pieces¬†help you lift lighter than the target color you will eventually be toning to. ¬†Doing this will help you eliminate the remaining warmth (brass).

A lot of stylists rinse toner off very quickly. ¬†I believe if you are rinsing it quickly then you are using the wrong toner. ¬†I understand time is money but if you don’t use¬†the right color (and level) and processes it at least 15 to 20 minutes minimum, it’s going to fade out too fast. ¬†I also think you will get a truer tone for a better looking color. ¬†Plus it’s easier to duplicate when they come back in.

ALWAYS finish¬†(style) your clients so they walk out looking and feeling amazing (even if they’re going home to do laundry. ¬†Doing the laundry isn’t as bad when you look great.

 

This was the first time I met her or did her hair.  She posted this on social media later that week.  Happy clients are priceless!

and the right clients :)
and the right clients ūüôā
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Dylan takes a bow